Isan - Northeastern Thailand

After a few days in Bangkok to do some housekeeping tasks – laundry, haircuts, banking – we were off on our Isan tour. Isan means northeast and refers to the group of 19 provinces that make up the north east corner of Thailand. It is a populous area where little English is spoken, rice fields stretch to the horizon, water buffaloes work the land, silk weaving is still a cottage industry, and saamlaws (bicycle rickshaws) transport passengers and their wares quietly through the streets. Cities/towns in the area where we stayed: Khorat (also known as Nakhon Ratchasima), Surin, Ubon Ratchathani, Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, and Nong Khai. Here are some of our highlights.

Transportation
Here are some of the ways that we travelled around the towns and cities. There is a never ending variety of public transportation in Thailand - I plan to add more to this section later. One picture I must have is that of a woman riding side saddle on a motorcylce taxi - with a serene expression!



Phimai (Khmer archaeological site, ~1000 AD)
The Khmer empire included most of present day Cambodia and southern Isan. The most famous Khmer site is Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia. But there are many sites in this area of Thailand. One of the most well reconstructed is Phimai. It predates Angkor Wat by 100 years, and is similar in style, but not in size! Another well known site in the area is called Khao Phra Wihan which sits on the Thai-Cambodian border. Both countries claim the site, and in Oct 2008 a gun battle between military forces resulted in the death of soldiers from both countries. It is calm now, but the site is closed. (The Canadian government has issued an "avoid travel" warning for the site.)

While we were visiting the site, a group of Thai students wanted to interview us and practice their English. That was great fun. Of course, they were busy taking pictures and a video of us; and we were trying to encourage them to talk. I'm sure we are providing lots of laughs in a Thai classroom somewhere.

Main temple


Example of Base Relief Work


Students who came to Phimai to practice English with tourists (like us)


Silk Production
The area around Khorat and Surin is well known for the production of silk weaving. There are many factories as well as hundreds, perhaps thousands, of families that still weave silk on hand looms in their homes. Naturally, there are lots of places to buy silk, silk weavings and ready made clothes. The government has also established a research centre near Surin where they raise and study silk worms and mulberry bushes.



Elephants
Surin is famous for an elephant festival that happens in Oct. At other times, you can visit the elephant centre and see an elephant show and visit the information centre.



Signage - and the Thai Language
In addition to the fact that few people speak English in Isan, signs are (naturally) written in Thai! While we have mastered a few words, and can understand a few things, we have NO understanding of the written language. This leads to some interesting challenges. On the other hand, signs written in English can be very funny. For example, they often omit the "r" sound when they speak so they also omit it when they write - with amusing results!

Thai Script


Thai/English Sign (almost)


Thai/English Sign (with an unintended meaning! or as Lance says this is what every man over 50 fears!)


Wats - Buddhist Temples
Approximately 95% of Thai people are Theravada Buddhists. As a result, Buddhism pervades all aspects of everyday life, and temples are everywhere. In fact, it is easy to become complacent about the ornate wats, and the complexes that surround them. They are literally everywhere, and are one of the main tourist attractions in Thailand. In towns like Nakhon Phanom, there are at least 8 temple complexes along a 3km stretch of the road that parallels the Mekong river. Here are some sample pictures - I have about 200 more!

A typical Wat complex includes a temple (or wat), one or more entrance gates, residences for the monks and novices, and a two or three storey tower that may contain one or more of these items: gong, bell or drum. A wat complex may also include a school and monuments that honour the deceased and store their ashes. While there are always buddha images inside the wat, there may also be many other buddhas around the complex.

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